From the bridge of his boat, Mentawai Captain Eric Lee fired off this shot with one hand on the camera and one hand on the wheel, capturing the interface of a number of colliding worlds. The energy of what we do, and where we put ourselves to do it, is as cosmic as any celestial upheaval. Photographed by Eric Lee.
The surfer inside has just come up from a wipeout on a smaller wave. He is going to get smashed and dragged over the surgeons table, the shallow, ragged bit on the inside. Probably stitches needed. The surfer directly in front of him is going to get blasted too. Smart move to get off his board, though it will probably come up in two pieces. The guy on the shoulder is not out of trouble. That is not a shoulder, that is a pitching ledge. He also cannot see the bigger waves on the outside. I reckon they’re all f*cked. Continue reading
