Bearing Witness To The Rich Pageantry Of Indonesian Surfing

By 1978 core communities of visitors had formed. Phil Jarrett’s losmen on Poppies Lane served as the salon for the surfing intelligentsia and pirates alike. Take a good look at this photo, each face reflects the proverbial cat that ate the canary. Warm, perfect waves, friends, exotic culture, freedom of expression. South Bali had yet to become the shrill, jackhammered construction site of today. Dick Hoole on the Camera, Mexican Sumpter and the Late Peter Troy center stage, Kingsley Kernowski, Jeff Doig, Carmel Hunter, Maurice Cole seated on the porch, Phil Jarrett, Ibu Windro and family…an easier time. Things would speed up from here. - Photographed by Dick Hoole

What is past is prologue. As for the future, our task is not to foresee it, but to enable it. Indonesian surfing has now reached an age where nostalgia is possible. The astonishing rise of Indonesia as the greatest surf destination and surf community in the world has been mostly due to the lives of the people and places you will see on the next few pages. Continue reading

CELEBRATING THE TUBE RIDE

Wade Goodall

The fact that surfers are willing to seek out and ride remote, deadly Indonesian waves like this giant before you is testimony to the extraordinary sense of purpose and ultimately, achievement Surfers possess. Proof positive that surfers have a spiritual dogma all their own. The past got you here, the present is all that you live for…until you kick out. Then you crave the future again. And again. And again. Wade Goodall, dropping into history on one of the biggest, gnarliest wave ever ridden in Indonesia. To have something to live for means being willing to die for it. - Photographed by Pete Frieden.

No yesterdays are ever wasted for those who give themselves to today.

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