ISLAND IN BETWEEN: PART TWO - THE MEANING OF A TIME HONORED SURF TRIP
That is the meaning of a surf trip? Is it a one day or a one hour raid? Just to go to some wave, surf the hell out of it, get a clip and piss off home? Or is it to spend five days at one wave and really get into it and the culture that surrounds it, getting the maximum experience you can from that place on earth? Or do you spend whatever time you have, a week, a month, whatever, basing yourself at that one wave and then stabbing out from there to find other spots in the vicinity? Or do you go out into the world to find a thousand waves and never come back?
A surf trip can be all those things. Look at surfing’s history up to now. Let’s just start with the Endless Summer movie back in 1966. From there it inspired all the discoveries that came after. Because of surf trips. Surfers going from the known to the unknown. From Cape St. Francis in ‘66 to Lagundri Bay in the 70’s to Skeleton Bay now. Have you noticed how the WSL tour and all its surfers are looking exactly the same, as if they are doing the same thing on the same waves over and over again? Almost as if we are watching TV re-runs? That is because they are.
The Island in between project is not about re-runs, it is about getting out there. Beyond. Getting our local surfers to engage in Indonesia and all it has to offer in culture, brotherhood, adventure and waves. To immerse. To engage. And to then emerge with the proof in hand. Proof that our surfing world here in Bali awaits far beyond our shores. Waits for us in the simple hands of a surf trip. In the hands of our brothers on neighbor islands. Experiences waiting for us like life itself to warm ourselves near campfires not our own.
Because around campfires, everyone becomes a storyteller.
And stories are the only things that let us know we have been here in the first place.