Remember yourself at 20 years old? Or if you are not there yet, can you imagine yourself at that age? Either way its a long, long time. And in our 20th year of publication the 16th Annual Surftime Awards are still going strong. The best ever this year, at a place we have always belonged. Finally, we are back at Single fin, Uluwatu, within reach of the crashing waves below a glowing moon. Hell yes. A chance to honor the best among us both in the water and out. Special recognition was given this year to the people who make up our surf industry here in Indonesia.

Think about it. Without all the stuff from the advertisers that you see in these pages, we wouldn’t be surfers at all. No boards, no wax, no cool clothes, groovy sunglasses, all the elements that mark us as a unique tribe of people on earth. As surfers themselves, these industry insiders provide the spiritual side of our clothes and equipment. Without these people who provide the look and all the equipment we love, we might ha…


That is the meaning of a surf trip? Is it a one day or a one hour raid? Just to go to some wave, surf the hell out of it, get a clip and piss off home? Or is it to spend five days at one wave and really get into it and the culture that surrounds it, getting the maximum experience you can from that place on earth? Or do you spend whatever time you have, a week, a month, whatever, basing yourself at that one wave and then stabbing out from there to find other spots in the vicinity? Or do you go out into the world to find a thousand waves and never come back?

A surf trip can be all those things. Look at surfing’s history up to now. Let’s just start with the Endless Summer movie back in 1966. From there it inspired all the discoveries that came after. Because of surf trips. Surfers going from the known to the unknown. From Cape St. Francis in ‘66 to Lagundri Bay in the 70’s to Skeleton Bay now. Have you noticed how the WSL tour and all its surfers are looking exactly the same, as if t…

OH, WHAT A NIGHT! The 16th Annual Surftime Awards at Single Fin Uluwatu!

Under a beautiful Bali night time sky, The Surftime Awards found a new home at Single Fin Uluwatu. Welcomed by a mix of Wednesday night diehard bukit party people and an eclectic mix of industry insiders, the affair, in its 16th annual form, was a welcome change to its past incarnations and a harbinger of times to come. That the Surftime Awards have always belonged at Single Fin is certainly no secret and the proof was in the pudding as the finest among us gathered to hail this year’s winners to the soundtrack of crashing waves, reggae fusion and roaring applause.

Even in its current form, which is under construction, The VIP deck at Single Fin was host to a throng of enthusiastic fans, alluring all-female tables, top performers and CEO’s liberally fueled with sponsors Finsbury Gin and Bir Bintang. The bellowing crowd lining the multi-tiered venue carried on as the night mowed through the announcements. Once again the trophies were a smash hit. Unique in all the world, these authe…


Chapter One:

If you were just outside of Las Vegas Nevada, at a secret military station in the desert, and you were at the controls of a US spy satellite and you happened to be a surfer, imagine what you could find. If your satellite were soaring over, say, Java and you were curious about a surf spot you had seen in a magazine or online and you had used some simple research to get the coordinates, you might look over your shoulder to see if anyone in the air conditioned shipping container you were working in was looking. And then you might surreptitiously divert the controls to check this surf spot out real quick like. Here is what you would find with your joystick on the high tech screen before you. On a clear day, from your outer space vantage you would see a large green island, a somewhat narrow island, running basically east to west, almost kissing the island of Bali to its southeast. Moving in you would see the gray, mushroom columns of smoke issuing from a few volcanoes to the …


“It’s an indescribable sight,” South African pro surfer Marc Price said of Jeffreys Bay in 1982. “Watching from the beach, you start off facing right and end up facing left as the wave travels down the point. This 180-degree perspective is something no photograph can capture.” And seemingly, surfboards have forgotten how to as well. When high-performance shortboards became thinner and narrower and shorter, the speed and performance levels at J-Bay among pro surfers declined as their boards wouldn’t hold the kind of sustained turns and propulsion that proper J-Bay surfing demands.

Even Kelly Slater struggles to find the right lines these days. And making it through the “Impossibles” section”, once the golden ticket of the entire wave, is now almost unheard of. Exasperation could also be heard in the voice of the once supreme master of the wave, 1977 World Champion Shaun Tomson, as he helped out with a recent WSL broadcast there. At one point, after watching wave after wave pass the…


I believe in magic. Crystal clear, blue waters. The sound of the waves embracing the white sand like a long-distance lover. The sun, shining a spotlight on you. Adrenaline rushing through your veins as swell lines approach. Tapping into the nature around and within you to ride the infinite energy of the ocean and earth. Magic is a feeling. That is magic to me.

Surfing is something I spend so my time doing. But it’s not everything I am. It’s my best friend, an outlet. And it opens doors. This year has been insane. Surfing the CT at Keramas made everything feel so real. I would look around me and just think, “This is the level I want to be at, I need to be at, and I will be at.” The amount of dedication, focus and determination, was infectious and inspiring. I could see how those factors made the surfers get to where they are.

I’ve had some struggles. Doing things I’ve always dreamed of doing but not being able to enjoy them. As if being myself was not good enough. Whether it be …

THE CUP: Thinking Bigger Picture At Rip Curl’s Crown Jewel Of A Surf Contest

There are only three surf contests in the world where the whole idea is to crawl Inside a roaring jet engine. Or so they feel. Pipe Masters, Teahupoo and the Rip Curl Cup. But far more than just another tube fest, though each venue has its charms, the Rip Curl Cup really takes the cake when it comes to setting. Pipeline faces overpriced real estate and Teahupoo takes place on an offshore barrier reef. But the Rip Curl Cup takes place at the terminus of an enchanted, limestone cleft, complete with waterfall and golden beach sands under the shadow of an ancient, sacred Hindu monkey temple. Pipeline got its obvious name from visiting haole’s and Teahupoo translates to a very grim “Wall of Skulls”. Meanwhile, Padang Padang means “A big playing field”.

A fitting name considering the eclectic gathering of surfers that met to play in an absolutely field of surf. This to decide who would be the King of the day at Indonesia’s most prestigious event. Staring into the blinding reflection of s…